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We've been taught that the 'smoky, minerally, gunflinty' style defines the wines from eastern Loire appellation Pouilly Fumé but we're hard pressed to spot it in Henri d'Estutt d'Assay's, richly textured, weighty, grassy, grapefruity Sauvignons. Perhaps his Château de Tracy a beautiful property, set in parkland, and home to the vine since 1396 deserves an appellation all its own. The current vintage is showing a little bottle age, and is lovely with goat cheese, citrus chicken, scallops or veal. The 2012 vintage won a Silver Medal at the 2014 Decanter World Wine Awards.
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